Category: Guns & Ammos

Interested In Airsoft Guns?

If you are in the market for high grade MP5 airsoft guns you need to look no further then the galaxy G5K. Below will will offer our review of the galaxy G5K MP5 personal defense weapon, or PDW as it is commonly known.

First Impression

To start with the first thing that will impress you about this gun is the price, most online retailers will offer it for under $100. But do not be fooled by the low prices because unlike other guns in this price range this is not a plastic low grade weapon but rather a full metal solidly built soft air gun that looks and feels like the real thing.

Build Quality

When you first pick it up you will be amazed by the weight of the gun for its size, this is due to the amount of metal used in its construction. You will also notice how tight it fits together and how solid it feels when you hold it. You will feel no loose handles or grips or rattles with this weapon. In fact even the included 240 round magazine snaps tightly into place with little to no wobble.

Performance

Out of the box using.2 gram BB’s this air soft gun will shoot 320-330 feet per second with a rate of fire that is in the range of 9-11 rounds per second. In tests we were able to accurately shoot out to a range of about 75 feet, after that accuracy degraded quickly. Although if you want an MP5 airsoft gun you realize that they are meant for close quarter battle and not long range shots!

Negatives

No honest review would be complete without pointing out something that was not liked about the product. Although it was very hard to find something we did not like about this gun it would have to be the paint on the firing switch looked old and faded right out of the box. Although not a big problem or one that will affect performance it is still worth mentioning.

Our Final Verdict

When it comes to high grade mp5 airsoft guns the galaxy G5K really stands out from the rest of the crowd. With great construction, low price and good performance it makes perfect sense for anyone who wants to inexpensively get into air soft and have a weapon that can advance with them through the hobby.

What form of self-defense could be more instinctive than using whatever ordinary objects around you to defend yourself against an attacker? Objects that were neither designed with self-defense in mind, nor specially carried for such a purpose by you. Objects that will neither raise the suspicion of Law Enforcement, nor take up any extra room since you would have had them either on your person or in your surroundings and environment anyway.

A person who has the right motivation, talent and will to survive can employ almost any object as a weapon.

Anything can become a weapon when your mind is the real weapon. Governments can’t ban it, customs can’t confiscate it and the only time you don’t have it is when you are asleep. This is the KEY lesson you should take away from this article.

In today’s anti-weapons climate many times and in many locations it’s impossible to carry a gun or knife (Courts, airports, etc). Even in your home at the time of a violent invasion you might not be close to your gun, or even knife.

Sometimes all you have left is your tactical creativity and your motivation and ability for thinking outside the box.

Your mind will always be your greatest weapon, not least of all because with your intelligence and ingenuity you can locate the most effective duel use objects to use as weapons during an assault. Your mind is a weapon, and with it you are never unarmed. Wherever you are I guarantee you you are surrounded by a multitude of potential weapons. Learn to spot them effectively.

While the will to use improvised weapons is often instinctive for the experienced fighter, the effectiveness of such improvised weapons can depend on how good an eye you have in not only quickly locating and choosing your improvised “weapon” but also on your ability to use that object in a way that will disable your attacker effectively (or allow you to escape the threat). And it is this ability that will increase only with proper training.

First a few thoughts on Natural Reactions:

Think of fights you might have seen yourself. What are the first natural reactions a person has when being attacked? First the person will put up his arms to block any attack, then they will instinctively grab for any object that can multiply the expediency of their own “god” given weapons (their body and limbs). Often one of the first such objects grabbed is a chair and it is used as a shield. If not a chair it will be another object that can be used as either a weapon or shield. It’s an instinctive and natural reaction displayed by seasoned fighters and people with no experience in self defense alike.

Often the manner in which the attacked will use the object depends on their mindset and/or level of aggression and the situation itself. For example some people when attacked will grab a chair and only use it as a shield. Other more aggressive fighters will instinctively begin hitting their attacker with the same chair and thus using it more as a striking weapon than merely a shield. Using the chair or other object as a striking weapon will disrupt your attacker’s ability from gaining direction, lead and control of the attack. While using the chair or other object as a shield can often be useful initially (especially in a surprise attack) you need to gain dominance and control rapidly through overwhelming force and aggression.

Often not much thought goes into such a split second decision in terms of exactly which object to grab for. There simply isn’t enough time for someone who is being attacked to weigh up the potential effectiveness of one object over another. This will come with experience.

At the end of the day though, almost any object can be used as either a weapon or atleast a shield, some objects that I’m sure you would never have thought of as weapons or even shields. Obviously though, some objects are more effective than others.

The following is a list of a few possible objects you very well might have in your environment that could be employed as improvised weapons or shields:

The flashlight:

A favourite among many a self defense practitioner for years now. Wrap some 550 paracord around it and make a Koppo type weapon or use by itself. Either way it’s a popular alternative weapon (and flashlight!). Can be used to momentarily blind an attacker or as an impact weapon. See specialist knowledge on how to use it most effectively.

Car antenna:

Listen up, in particular women who walk alone in car parks! You can quite quickly break off a metal car antenna and use it to fend off one or more attackers in a whipping action. The strikes can be very painful and effective and will likely at the very least stun and discourage an attacker from continuing. Remember, often these predators are looking for an easy victim. If you prove to the attacker that you’ll be more trouble than your worth, he’s quite likely to discontinue the attack and seek out someone who will give him less trouble.

Keys:

Not the easiest or most effective option in reality despite often being recommended by defensive instructors. Shouldn’t be your first choice, however if you have nothing else at hand it’s better than nothing. Hold key between middle fingers and use to punch with greater effect. Or can be used to scrape across attacker’s face.

Steel cap boots:

Often overlooked but very legal everywhere and a very painful alternative weapon. Kick attacker in the shins or groin. A real fight stopper with proper aim.

Pens:

As the saying goes, “The pen is mightier than the sword”. Well, surely that was meant figuratively. In any case, when carrying a sword during your daily business is not a reasonable option (and I can’t imagine it is for most people) a pen makes quite a mighty alternative weapon. Another favorite among seasoned Martialists. Can be used as a stabbing implement or as a makeshift Kubaton. Hold in a pikal grip with your thumb on the clicker or blunt end and stab down or sideways repeatedly with the pointy end outwards. Hit to the liver, other soft appendages and neck for greatest effect. If you know how to use a Kubaton you know how to use a pen as a weapon. Choose a hefty strong metal pen like the now discontinued Rotring 600, a beefy hexagonal pen made of chrome-plated brass. Always legal, always useful for the intelligent and literate person for more than just self-defense, and a good alternative weapon for the concerned self defense practitioner.

The beer bottle, or other glass bottle:

Be careful with this one. Unlike in the movies DO NOT ever first break the bottle on the table thinking you’ll be left with a sharp knife like weapon. You won’t. In reality what you will be left with is a small piece of the bottle’s neck.

That’s it. Nothing sharp protruding at any length and nothing you can use effectively as a weapon.

In fact, for that matter, most of what you see on TV does not work, was never meant to work, and if you try it you’ll probably be in big trouble.

You can still use a glass bottle as a weapon though, just don’t break it on the table first, smash it directly in your attacker’s face! Preferably use a glass bottle full of liquids, as an empty one will be far less effective.

Coffee mug or glass or ceramic cup:

Smash it across your attacker’s face much like the glass bottle.

If you have hot coffee inside at the time, obviously splash it on his face. All the sudden you won’t complain that McDonalds makes their coffee too hot. The hotter the better as an alternative weapon.

If there is alcohol inside your glass, throw it in your attacker’s face. Aim for the eyes for stinging effect.

Carabiner:

An old army trick. Use a large one as a makeshift “knuckleduster”. Works well. Punch and hammer fist your attacker’s head and face. Preferably you would have a steel one, but an aluminum type will work well enough if need be.

A chair:

A chair, not only to keep lions at bay they can also keep your attacker at bay or shield you from a knife attack. They also make good larger improvised impact devices, although they are mainly best used as a shield.

Trash can lid:

Another great improvised shield. The trash can itself can be thrown at the BG and might at least give you time to escape or to employ a better weapon.

Dresser drawer:

That’s right, if you’re attacked in your bedroom immediately grab and pull out a drawer from the dresser. Can be used as a shield or even as an impact weapon, much like the laptop or book. Check out your drawers right now and see if they come out completely and easily. If they don’t, try modifying them.

Walking cane/stick:

One of the best alternative weapons. Huge striking power. Easy to use and especially effective with modern Arnis Filipino stick fighting techniques. Always legal, always with you, always right in your hand ready to be used to strike, to disarm or to block an attack. It can however make you seem weaker or partially disabled, and thus can make you a more desirable victim or target to an attacker. Remember, predators target the weakest people, or in other words the people who they think will put up the least amount of fight. Keep this in mind and decide for yourself whether a walking stick is a good option. Certainly, in any case, if you carry a walking stick then do seek out combat stick training.

A padlock:

Devastating weapon, you can only hope to be lucky enough to have one handy. Slip your middle finger inside the steel loop with the rest of the padlock in your fist. Use as makeshift knuckleduster or fist-load. Or swing padlock at your attacker while holding it with one finger and the rest of padlock outwards. Aim for head, as the padlock would be too small to do damage to body.

Ashtray:

Usually a hefty solid weapon. Grab it like a frisbee and slam it into your assailant’s head, face, or jam it in his neck or throat. Throw the cigarette butts and ashes in his face as a distraction.

Magazine:

Rolled up it can make an excellent impact weapon. Most effective using quick, strong, short strikes repeatedly to attacker’s face and to other more sensitive areas due to the inherent lack of mass of the magazine.

Tie:

If you’re a business man in a suit you’ve got an excellent flexible weapon or a possible garrot as part of you wardrobe. If your attacker is in fact the one wearing a tie you can use it to control or disorient him. Grab his tie and pull downwards hard.

Please note: This is one reason I generally advise people not to wear anything that doesn’t break easily around the neck. It is too easy for someone to use it to control you during an attack, just as you can use the same tactic on someone else.

Laptop:

As was recently reported a celebrity used one as a weapon against a pushy paparazzi with great effect. Hold with both hands and slam into your attacker’s face full force or push out and jab it into his face, neck or midsection with the sides/edges of the closed laptop. Can also be used to shield against an attacker’s weapon or strike.

Clipboard:

Used much the same way as the laptop. Has thinner and so sharper edges, however on the other hand it also has less mass and might be less painful because of that.

A book:

Not only good for reading and learning. Used much the same way as the laptop and clipboard, although the book would have more heft than a clipboard.

Briefcase:

You’re already holding it, and it has a secure handle. Swing it into your attacker’s face/head or use as a shield. Push him away with the briefcase and escape. Open briefcase and take out other alternative weapons that have been mentioned here such as magazine, pen, etc.

Lamp:

You’ll usually have a lamp nearby in your home. Grab it, and smash it across your attacker’s face. Use the cord as a flexible weapon.

Fire extinguisher:

Has been used before with great effect. Devastating power. Aim for head/face. Makes an excellent shield too. Also spray contents directly onto attacker. It will at the least disorient him, it will often even hide your exit due to the cloud of white dust.

Put one in you car. You should have one in your car anyway for fire safety, but it might even save your life if you need to use it as a weapon.

Duct tape:

Not a weapon as such but makes good handcuffs to hold your attacker until the police arrive. Large zip ties are a good alternative to duct tape.

Light switch:

Darkness is a brilliant weapon under the right circumstances. If you are attacked by night, the light switch can be the best “weapon” for defense, without really being a weapon as such. Simply turn the lights off. Darkness is a tactical advantage for you, after all you know the layout of your own house while your attacker does not. You also know where you have other weapons and escape routes. Darkness could also simply give you the time needed to escape. Also, darkness will increase the blinding effectiveness of your flashlight if you are carrying one.

Clothing:

Are you wearing a coat or scarf? A coat or jacket can be used to shield yourself against an attacker’s knife or other weapon. Wrap it around your weak arm, and hit and defend yourself with your strong arm and legs.

The long sleeves can also be used as a flexible weapon for choking or entangling limbs.

If on your bicycle:

Your helmet, tire pump, and flexible bike locks are potential impact devices.

Even the bike itself can act as an effective shield against an attacker. It will act as a good obstruction between you and him giving you time to escape. If need be it can even be thrown at the attacker.

Belt buckle:

A heavy brass or steel one. Can make a great impact weapon. Can even be swung at the attacker since it’s attached to your belt.

Belt:

Even without a heavy buckle your belt can be one of the best flexible weapons available.

Sprays:

Any spray will do brilliantly. Think about it, what spray do you have around? Hair spray? Deodorant? Air freshener? Silicone spray? I personally have all and more of these sprays right here as I type this, aside from the hair spray. All these sprays will blind your attacker almost as well as pepper spray. If you’re a smoker you probably have a lighter handy. Add a lighter in front of the spray and you’ve got an excellent flame thrower. I’m sure we all tried this when we were kids.

At the very least the spray can be used as an impact weapon if nothing else.

Comb:

Especially a metal comb.

Can be raked across an attacker’s face repeatedly with good success.

Umbrella:

Always another favorite. The larger ones make a good impact weapon and improvised stick fighting weapon. Also a great shield a la Roman style when opened. Some of the full sized ones have a pointy bit protruding, perhaps 2 to 3 inches long, so while you shield yourself you can also push the opened umbrella forward into the attacker’s face and body.

The smaller umbrellas are good too, however of course they are less durable and have less power due to lack of size.

Iron:

A great common household device. Can cause a lot of damage from use as a striking weapon, and again most irons have an electrical cord that makes a good flexible weapon as well.

A broom or mop:

Another long impact device. Can be used as a long staff for stick fighting techniques. Can also be used to hold the attacker at a distance.

Your car:

While it’s not always justified to use deadly force in this way since it can be argued that if you’re inside your car you are safe, if a gang of hoodlums or an angry middle eastern mob is surrounding your car, you’ve got 3000 pounds worth of effective weaponry on hand. At times deadly force can be justified depending on the situation including any disparity of force between you and the attacker(s) and the resulting danger you face at the time. Your main goal should be to escape in this case, but if necessary run a hoodlum over to affect your escape.

A phone:

Excellent impact device, very handy. A cord phone also makes a good flexible weapon if you’re skilled in using one effectively.

Phones have been used many times as impact devices.

Coins:

Throw coins from your pocket into the face of your attacker. Another good diversionary tactic.

A packed roll of coins can also make a good fist-load and has been used many times as such.

Sports equipment:

Tennis racket, golf club, pool stick, the obvious and often used baseball bat, dumbbells, etc. All are excellent impact devices. Keep a few golf clubs and balls in your car even if you don’t play. Or a baseball bat and glove and maybe some balls too in order to not raise the suspicion of LEO.

Watch:

Preferably a heavy steel dive watch. Take the watch off your wrist and wrap it around the fist you punch with (strong arm). The first punch should break the glass and subsequent punches could cut your attacker up. Even if the glass doesn’t break and cut him it’s still a good improvised impact device if need be.

Bracelet:

A la Fred Perrin style. Only works with a solid one piece bracelet, not the flexible link type. Take your metal bracelet off and hold in your fist. Use as an impact device to punch with.

Your voice:

Your voice can be a great improvised weapon wherever you are.

Verbally you can often stop, control or at very least influence the direction of an attack. Far too an extensive a subject to get into here. Learn about verbal commands and communication skills for defensive purposes/redirection of attacker’s violent behavior toward you. Sometimes known as verbal judo. Any good martial art or self defense system needs to address this subject.

—- One note on employing flexible weapons:

As you can see a number of the potential weapons I mentioned in this small list are flexible, for example the electrical cord and clothing. Please keep in mind that as with most flexible weapons, specialist knowledge in hand to hand combat is needed for most effective use. Flexible weapons simply aren’t as straight forward as let’s say a chair or even a book which will instinctively be used as a shield often even by people with little or no experience in self defense.

This is merely a small sampling of possibilities. It would be impossible to list for you all the possible alternative use “weapons”/objects you might come across that might be of great defensive use during an attack. The list would be too large, and no one can know what will be available to you in your specific environment at that time. Obviously some environments are richer in potential alternative weaponry than others. It’s you’re job to train yourself to identify these potential weapons out of any objects around you.

From now on look at the objects around you with a different eye. Look at objects in your surroundings through sort of a “weapons” filter. Specifically ask yourself, which ones can make an effective weapon? How would you use it? Will that object really cause hurt to your attacker and disable him, or is it really just a waste of time? Sometimes an object would make such a poor weapon that it’s better to fight unarmed. Learn to accurately evaluate potential weapons in your environment.

No one can really instruct you or show you every object that has the potential to be used as a weapon. Above all it is a mindset that you will have to develop. Preparation and training is the best way to help guarantee a better chance for success in a self defense incident. But once you develop this situational awareness and survival mentality you’ll be much better prepared to defend yourself in any situation than ever before, for you will have an instinctive understanding and application of self defense as a way of life.

Think outside the box, think like a fighter, like someone committed to self preservation and the defense of loved ones from societal predators.

Potential weapons are all around you.

It is now simply a matter of identifying them.

Definition of Ammunition

Ammunition must match the firearm and varies depending on the type of firearm. Ammunition is made up of four parts, case, primer, powder and projectile. Handguns and rifles use a cartridge (case) containing a single projectile/bullet. A single piece of ammunition is sometimes referred to as a ’round’. Shotgun ammunition uses a shell (case) containing a large number of small projectiles (shot or pellets) or a single slug.

Components of Ammunition:

Case: The container that holds all the other components together. It’s usually made of brass or steel, shotshells are usually a combination of brass and plastic.

Primer: A very small but explosive chemical compound that, when struck by the firing pin ignites the gunpowder inside the case. Primer may be placed either in the rim of the case (rimfire cartridge) or in the center of the base (centerfire cartridge).

Powder or Gunpowder: A chemical mixture that, when ignited and converts instantly into a forcefully expanding gas. Modern smokeless powder will burn slowly if ignited in the open air (outside of the case).

Black powder: Far less stable than smokeless power and is explosive even when ignited in open air.

Projectile/Bullet: The solid object that is fired from the barrel of a gun at the target.

Slug: A solid projectile fired through a shotgun barrel, generally used for hunting large mammals.

Shot: Pellets, small beads of lead, steel, tungsten alloy, or bismuth pellets fired from a shotgun.

There are a few specialty rifle cartridges that are loaded with shot.

Bullet: The common name for the projectile, commonly made of lead, fired from rifles and handguns.

Bullets come in various shapes, sizes and different materials. The bullet is commonly made of lead or may have a lead core and a jacket (cover/coating) made of copper or a copper alloy.

Bullets used for hunting game are generally designed to expand on contact causing maximum shock.

Full metal jacket bullets which do not expand on contact are illegal to use for hunting.

Bullets used for target shooting usually have solid points or flat tips that make smaller holes.

Different Kinds of Ammunition

Centerfire: The primer is a separate piece and is loaded into the center of the cartridge case. Most rifle, shotgun and handgun ammunition is centerfire. Centerfire cartridges are very reliable and can withstand high pressure. Centerfire cartridges can be reloaded at least once.

Rimfire: The primer is loaded into the rim (outer edge) of the cartridge case. This type of cartridge is low power, low pressure, used in small caliber rifles and handguns. Rimfire ammunition can not be reloaded.

With the deer hunting season in full swing, the most important accessory for you is the hunting rifle. Finding a good hunting rifle is easier said than done. Whatever be the kind of deer you hunt , it is important to have the right gun for your hunting needs.

What is the definition of a good hunting rifle you will ask ? A good hunting rifle is one which is specifically made for hunting and can withstand years of rough use while hunting. Toughness is one factor that is of prime importance than a few others. That is why knowing what to look for in a rifle is important so that you can make an informed decision.

There are different kind of guns available for the type of hunting you do. If you do squirrels and grouse, you will need a different gun than if you went on a trip for deer or fox hunting. That said the first and foremost factor you should consider while buying the rifle is its weight. Most rifles have weight between 6 to 9 pounds. However, the best is the one which you can carry comfortably over long distances while on a hunting trip. You do not want that your arms are shaking when you take the aim for a deer.

Accuracy and range are two other factors that you need to consider while purchasing a hunting rifle. The heavier the gun the more accurate it will be, however, think twice before buying that as it means you will be carrying a heavy weight before even you can take a shot. Range is more important when you are hunting for deer or bear or fox as you cannot get closer to them while hunting. In case of hunting for smaller animals you may not need that much range as you can get closer to them while taking the aim.

Some other factors are important but not as important as the above ones. One of those factors is your experience as some guns require special expertise in operating them. The second factor is the length between the cheek and the stock which can affect your aim.

Do your research before you buy the best deer hunting rifle you need and best of luck for hunting.

The Sentry G4311 gun safe is a thick, heavy and secure 14-gun safe that can, however, hold at most only 8 guns. It has three dead bolts and five active-locking bolts on the top, bottom and leading edges, and near the hinges as well. All the bolts in the safe are one inch in diameter, and feel sturdy and robust. A hole on the left side of the safe provides for an optional dehumidifier, and inside is a shelf that is fully adjustable. The safe also comes with a removable false-bottom, under which more valuables can be kept.

The interiors of the safe are completely lined with fabric so as to prevent scratches on guns kept inside the safe. For shotguns, the racking system is adjustable. The lock is very secure as it comes with an impressive five-digit electronic lock, with a manual key override option. The safe is quite easy to open, and the guns inside can be taken out quickly. The steel walls of the safe are adequately thick, but not fireproof. The safe is quite heavy, and cannot be moved easily. To make it even more immobile, lead plates or other heavy metal objects can be placed inside the false-bottom.

The shelf is not very convenient, as ammo placed on it could fall off the back, on to the rifles below. Digging out loose ammunition from between the rifles could be quite a difficult task.

Compared to trigger-locks or gun-locks, gun safes provide much more safety. The Sentry G4311 safe is a compact, sturdy and safe container for firearms. Owing to its weight, it cannot be lifted or stolen easily. Though not very cheap, the safe is well worth it’s price.

Part 1

My Doctoral Dissertation was titled: Examining if a difference exists between online and traditional college students. Though my dissertation concerned College students, many of the same principles apply to High School and Elementary School. The major issue is the quality of education difference between the two forms of pedagogy [ped-uh-goh-jee, -goj-ee] noun, which is defined as; the function or work of a teacher; teaching the art or science of teaching and educational/instructional methodology.

Even though my bio lists my degree’s, I wanted to supply my experience with the American School System. I spent my first 5 of 17 years in matriculation in a classroom format. The instruction, teacher support and on campus support was excellent; even though I was 52 years old when I started classes in 2000. I was amazed by the reception I received from the younger students in my classes. Because I was older my fellow students wanted to know what I thought they should do and not do, concerning their choices of, not only classes but often life choices.

This is an axiom of all students whether they are college, high school or elementary level. While these students, especially when they reach their teens, and (think their parents are idiots), they will listen to an outside adult influence. Hence, my advice to parents is to first find an adult who values an education and ask them to be your 2^nd teacher. If the child is versed early in what the true meaning and possibilities for their future are, (at an early age), they will learn that taking time to research and consider risk management in their decisions, will produce better choices for them in that future!

I would like to expand on my statement concerning my matriculation in a classroom format. Not only does the student receive face-to-face instruction, but more importantly they can receive the instructions when the subject does not make any sense to the student. Face-to-Face instruction allows the teacher to spend QUALITY time with the student, where he/she can understand the student and adjust their curriculum to accommodate the students emotional and physical Adagio [e-‘da-j(e-)o] noun, defined as; at a slow tempo or pace!

As pointed out numerous times over many years, additional benefits occur from social interaction and student bonding. The advantage of our children getting exercise and learning sportsmanship and fair play have been highly underestimated by our local, state and especially federal governments. This is proven by the cuts to social and sports activities funding. This has created a Milieu [meel-YOO] noun, defined as; a surrounding culture and environment, where true education has taken a back seat to funding of military weapons to our police. Hence, a cut in pay for schoolteachers and our local school districts.

Many parents today consider elementary and high school teachers to be nothing more than well-educated babysitters and do not take advantage of the opportunities afforded them to have a voice in what happens in their child’s education. This is evident by the many jokes made about “parent, teacher conferences”. It is my opinion that all parents (or at least one parent) should be required to attend these opportunities to control what and how our students should learn.

Over the next several weeks I will be reviewing the Amalgam [e-MAL-gem] defined as; a mixture or combination – of brick and mortar educational opportunities compared to online learning. Next week I will discuss the Obfuscation [ob·fus·cat·ing] verb, defined as; to make obscure or unclear, the advantages (small) to the disadvantages (large) of total online educational formats, instruction, teacher support and campus support.

Dr. Edward J. Files, AGS, AAS, BSM, Emba, Ed.D. (dual concentrations in Organizational and Leadership Development)

Chaps (pronounced “shaps” and short for chaparajos) were originated as a protective garment worn by cowboys in brushy areas. There are many reasons for the use of chaps from decorative to practical. This study will include the origin as well as the practical uses of chaps.

Chaps originated in Spain and Mexico. The first known use of them was for riders to wear when working cattle. They were two large pieces of cowhide that were used to form a protective shield over both the riders legs as well as the horse’s chest. Hooking onto the saddles horn, they served both purposes well, but were bulky and hard to work with; therefore chaps were conceived.

Batwings – Originally the most prevalent type of chaps were batwings. These chaps were mostly just an outer layer of leather, usually with three clasps to hold them on the leg. One clasp was near the top of the leg, one behind the knee and one around mid calf.

You will see batwings in most early westerns and western art. Frederick Remington and Charles Russell probably never heard of shotgun chaps which are more common today. Batwing chaps could keep a cowboy’s legs safe from brambles and brush, but they weren’t a lot of help keeping the legs warm in cold weather.

Batwings mostly gave way to shotgun chaps in the mid 20th century; however batwings are still popular today among rodeo cowboys for the decorative value as well as the fact that they flop around so much during a ride that they can help show good spurring traits.

Shotgun – Shotgun chaps tend to be more fitted to the individual than batwings. They are formed from leather, usually with a zipper to zip up and encase each leg, as if in armor. Shotguns can be used to keep warm in cold weather as well as protection from thorns and brush.

Both kinds of chaps are also useful in a branding corral protecting against all kinds of dangers such as vaccination needles and hot branding irons.

Chinks (short for chinkaderos) – Chinks came along in the latter part of the 20th century and have grown quite popular, although there are still pockets of holdouts here and there. Chinks have been called “cowboy shorts” by some individuals who don’t want to change, but they are quite practical for the working cowboy.

Usually made in a similar fashion to shotguns, chinks are simply cut off around knee to mid-calf level, and have fringe around the outer edge. Much more comfortable in warm weather, chinks, like batwings and shotguns, serve a purpose in the cowboy life style. Since most cowboys wear boots that come up near the knee, chinks protect the area above the boot.

Chaps are also useful for other reasons. Leather chaps stick to a leather saddle or a bareback horse better than do fabric trousers and help the rider stay in the saddle.

You’ve just got yourself a new rifle scope, fitted it and let me guess…for some reason your shots are landing nowhere near the crosshairs?

Sadly there’s more to rifle scope sharp shooting than just plonking the scope on the rifle and forever after shooting like an SAS sniper! You have to “zero” it.

Think about it. It’s like a bike wheel. If you tighten the bolts wrong, too much on one side for example, it spins wrong and rubs the brake pads. It’s the same with a Rifle scope. If it’s not set up correctly it will be offline and even at short air rifle, airsoft and paintball ranges this is going to throw your accuracy right off. At longer ranges you’ll miss by a mile (well figuratively anyway!)

What Does “Zero a scope” mean?

Zeroing a sight or scope means getting the crosshair in position so that when you shoot. Ground zero if you like. The point of impact.There’s a lot of discussion amongst shooters on the best way to zero a scope or sight. What I’ve written below is what I’ve been sending out to my eBay scope buyers for the last year or so and received a lot of good comments back about it so I know it’s OK!

How to Zero a Rifle Scope

First of all you need to set a firm foundation by fitting the scope mounts well.

1. Put the scope mounts on the rifle first with the top brackets removed.
2. Tighten them into place using 1/2 turns at the time so that they sit solid and level as best as is possible, i.e., the downward pressure is as equal as possible. At this stage don’t tighten them fully as you might want to slide them up and down a little.
3. Now take scope and place it on top of the open rifle mounts.
   • Make sure the windage and elevation turrets are one up and one to the right (these are the “turrets” on the sight. You use them later to make micro adjustments and in the field adjustments for wind)
4. Then put the top mount brackets on and tighten – Again use partial turns to tighten up.
   • Don’t tighten fully at this stage, you may yet need to adjust a little.

Zero the scope

1. Lie in your normal shooting position and check that you can see through the scope well…
   • The distance between your eye and the rear scope lens is called Eye Relief.
   • Unlike cartoons you do not use a scope by pressing your eye up against the scope lens!
2. Once comfortable complete the screwing down of all mounts so that your set up is solid –
   • take care at this stage to keep the final turns partial and one by one to ensure pressure is equal.

Now it’s time to zero the scope for shooting:

1. Load the rifle
2. Adopt your standard prone/lie down shooting position.
   • Prone is the best way as if you test shoot from standing or kneeling positions you waver more and it’s harder to do a “true test”.
3. Put some sort of target in place at say 20 yards – or whatever you think your “standard” range will be.
4. Using cross hair on target centre – Take 2-3 shots – Where do do they fall in relation to where you want them to? Right, left, up, down – dead on (lucky you!)

• 2-3 shots is best as it will average out shooter inaccuracy and give you a more “significant” feel for how far or close you are from true zero.

Now it’s time to use the windage and elevation turrets to get it zeroed dead on. These are the 2 turrets on the top and right side of the scope. See my website for pictures.

1. Models vary, you’ll probably screw a cap off and expose either a coin twist or finger knurled type of dial.
2. The top turret adjusts up and down. The right one left and right.
3. If you have your scopes instructions they should have a table with figures to tell you what each click adjustment means in terms of cross hair movement at “x” distance, e.g., 1/8 inch at 100 metres.

Use single click turns and each time take a new shot to gauge where the shot now falls – the dials basically adjust the cross hair position up-down and left-right.

It’s trial and error basically but with testing you’ll get to where you need to be and be able to trust that your shots will go where it says they will! This may take some time and a lot of shots. Be patient!

Do you feel safe when you walk to your car at night? Do you feel there is somebody stalking you when you are jogging? If so, we have the perfect self defense tool for you especially if you are a woman. There is a technology to help prevent crime from happening to you.

Introducing the small and compact Pocket Guard 8504 stun gun. This stun gun is very easy to carry in the hand. But do not be fooled by its tiny size. This machine definitely packs a wallop. At 65,000 V, you can wield this machine against your assailant and watch him drop to the floor instantaneously.

This unit measures 4″ x 2-1/8″ x 1″. It contains a black plastic housing and operates on a 9 V alkaline or Nickel-Cadmium battery. This little rascal weighs only 3.5 oz. On the back side of the item, there is a screwed-on metal clip which is used to carry your Pocket Guard stun gun on your belt or the inside opening of your purse. This provides easy access in the event that you need it at the most appropriate time. That means there is no fumbling around the bottom of your purse before you draw out your self defense tool. It is ready for action.

If you are looking for efficacy but do not want to pay an exorbitant price, then the Pocket Guard stun gun is for you. Ladies like the effectiveness of this unit and enjoy the cheap, discounted price. Even though it does not carry any extra bells and whistles such as an alarm or a flashlight, many women find that this particular model will do the job for them. Ladies feel they have peace of mind.

Personal safety is always a concern on the minds of many women today. With this product, you can rest assured that you are getting what you pay for.

The physiological effects of the Pocket Guard stun gun are as follows:

• Shocking the attacker for ½ to 1 second will startle him and give him some pain and muscle contraction.
• For 1 to 3 seconds, he will experience muscle spasms and mental confusion.
• For 3 to 6 seconds, he will experience loss of balance and voluntary muscle control along with absolute mental confusion and disorientation.

Always keep stun guns away from children since these are not toys but rather self defense tools. Always check your batteries to ensure that you have a fully charged unit that is ready for use whenever you leave your house or your job.

Remember that your safety always comes first.

While the fun and adrenaline is definitely in the game, it’s also fun to shop and put together your equipment list. Picking out an awesome tactical paintball gun and a camouflage outfit for a custom look to stand out on the field is exciting to most players who are totally into the sport. After choosing the right color fatigues, a tactical paintball vest is essential for finishing your look but also for the best performance on the field. The right tactical vest will not only help you carry your gear, but give you an identity in the game. Choose your tactical paintball vest to best suit the position you play in the game and the equipment you need to be successful. Customizing your tactical vest is also fun but it requires thinking ahead to what you might need it for during play.

Not only do tactical vests come in nearly every camouflage pattern to match your fatigues, but the pouches are as varied. If you play on the front lines of battle, using a paintball pistol for exhilarating close quarter fighting is a great idea. Pistols are great fun to use but can be cumbersome to carry. Most players use thigh holsters to house tactical paintball pistols but these take some getting used to and often create an unbalanced feel, slowing down quick movements that can hinder your play style. Choosing a tactical vest with a pistol holster on the front is the best way to carry these fun accessories, making them easier to move with and faster to draw when needed. If you play the mid or back field, choose a tactical vest that’s loaded with ammo pods. For scenario games played on a closed field, back field players are typically more stationary to provide cover fire so the front players can continue to move forward and accomplish the mission at hand. Because of this, back players can afford to use heavier paintball equipment and can carry lots of ammo. Mid field players are used to traveling back and forth, ready to take spots in the front or back of the field load their paintball vest with ammo pods and can provide extra paintballs to other players.

While a good vest is practically essential for carrying your gear, it’s not a bad idea to customize it for the type of marker you use. Nowadays if you play woodsball and you aren’t using a magazine fed paintball gun, you’re behind the times. These realistic markers are the latest innovation in scenario paintball and in some games you just aren’t playing if you don’t have one. The trade off with these guns is a replacement of the traditional clunky hopper for a realistic magazine, however dropping down from carrying 200 rounds to only 20. This means you will have to carry numerous 20 round magazines if you want to play longer than 10 minutes. If a magazine fed paintball gun is your tool of choice, a tactical vest loaded with magazine pouches is a necessary accessory.

Another fun scenario paintball weapon is a paintball grenade launcher. These realistic accessories attach to the bottom of your tactical marker and work like a shotgun, blasting a devastating spray of paintballs in an effective range of about 25-30 feet. Paintball grenade launchers operate using a paintball grenade shell that’s loaded with about 20 paintballs and powered by a hand held charger. Grenade launchers add a totally fun and exciting element to any game but players are limited to being able to carry the necessary accessories required to use them. If you use a paintball grenade launcher, a tactical vest is the best way to carry everything you need. A tactical vest equipped with pouches to carry paintball grenade shells, your hand held charger and extra CO2 is a must if you want to have fun with this unique accessory.

Tactical vests are also great to help with blending into your surroundings. Camouflage fatigues are definitely the appropriate apparel for scenario paintball. Whenever possible, it’s best to choose a camouflage pattern that matches the environment you’ll be playing in. For example, if your scenario game is a desert background, then tan, desert colored camouflage clothes are best; for woodsball, choose a woodland camo, DPM or digital camo. Fortunately, tactical vests are also available in nearly every type of camouflage pattern fatigues come in, so you can match this garment with your scenario outfit with ease. In fact, a camouflage paintball vest over top of the same colored camouflaged uniform offers a totally fierce look like a professional soldier would wear.

Besides invisibility and adding to your camouflaged look, another benefit of wearing a tactical vest is the added protection they bring to your torso. When all the pouches are fully loaded down with gear, this provides an impenetrable layer of hard items offering a complete barrier against incoming paintballs. While this won’t cause the balls to bounce off you, it will take all the pain out of being shot in the chest or anywhere in the upper torso. A tactical vest will also save you money by not having to purchase a paintball chest protector. Even if you wear your vest without anything in the pouches, it will still offer you an extra layer of material that will still greatly reduce or completely eliminate the sting of being shot. Some tactical vests also include a thin layer of padding underneath the top layer of material that adds a bit more weight to the vest but also more protection.

If you choose to add a tactical vest to your scenario paintball equipment closet, shopping is easy as these accessories are easy to find and there are tons to choose from. Basically, you can either choose a vest that’s already put together and adorned with pouches or you can start with an empty vest and build your own. Most players seem to go with paintball vests that are already built for convenience, however some prefer the fun of making their own creation. If you choose an already built tactical vest, make sure it has pouches that can be changed in case you want to customize it later. It’s also important to make sure there are numerous pouches available so you have plenty of choices for customization.

Should you choose to build your own tactical paintball vest, it’s best to go with a ‘MOLLE’ system. MOLLE vests feature a certain type of strap and snap system of adhering pouches to it. This easy attachment system makes MOLLE vests super easy to customize. This type of tactical vest is also used by military and law enforcement so pouches are easily found and cheap to buy. Blank MOLLE system vests are available in tan, black or olive and sell for ~$35. Then it’s up to you to choose which color pouches you want to customize your game. Overall, this is the best way to go as you can build up a collection of different pouches and easily change them out as needed to customize your vest for different occasions or scenarios you play in. A tactical vest that can be changed into different configurations to best equip you for the mission you’re going on is a valuable tool and worth the investment.